The Mercat de Santa Caterina Is Better Than the Boqueria. Here’s Why.
When I moved to Barcelona I went to La Boqueria on my second day because every guide told me to. I queued behind forty-two tourists for a glass of juice that cost €7, ate a piece of jamon next to a man explaining to his wife that this was the real Spain, and left. I have not been back for food purposes.
Mercat de Santa Caterina
The Mercat de Santa Caterina, in El Born, opened in 2005 after a long renovation designed by Enric Miralles and Benedetta Tagliabue — the extraordinary undulating mosaic roof is the reason to photograph it. But it is also, and primarily, a functioning neighbourhood market. The produce stalls are priced for people who cook at home. The fish counter is excellent. The small bar at the back is the correct place to have a coffee and a montadito at 9am.
It serves the El Born and Sant Pere neighbourhoods. On weekday mornings it is full of people who live here doing the shopping. On weekends it gets more visitors but never reaches the saturation of La Boqueria. Go before 10am if you want it at its most useful.
Carrer de Blai, Poble Sec
I live in Poble Sec. The street I eat on most is Carrer de Blai — a pedestrianised street of pintxo bars where €1.50 gets you a small piece of bread with something on top. The quality varies by bar and by hour. The rule is: go at lunchtime when they’re freshest, 1–2pm. The evening rush after 8pm means older pintxos under hot lamps. Order a caña (small beer, €2–2.50) and work your way down the street.
Blai 9 is the one with the longest queue and the most variety. Bar Electricitat is the oldest and the most local. Both are worth doing.
